An Icelandic Adventure: Part One…The Odyssey

I left Logan Airport on October 27th, bound for Edinburgh, with a two-hour layover in Iceland. Upon landing at Keflavik airport early in the morning of the 28th, I was greeted by a record snowfall. Thus began an adventure I had not sought nor would I ever want to do again. It was definitely an adventure, but in the end, I’m better for it. What follows is the sequence of events. There will be a Part Two…Stay tuned


THE FIRST DAY


“Ladies and gentlemen, we have started our final descent.”
Please return to your seats, fasten your seatbelts, raise your tray tables, and ensure your seat backs are in the upright and locked positions
Prepare for landing.

Oh, and it’s snowing.

More snow than I expected
No landing bridge
Must exit outside
Descending icy, snow-covered stairs.

God, don’t let me fall.

Grab the handrail,
Cold and unkind beneath my fingers
Pull myself aboard the tram to the terminal

Bathroom break.
Buy nothing. No reason.
I’ll be in Scotland shortly.
Haggis is in my future.

Snow continues.
Not worried yet.

Lines! Lines! Lines!

Wait for the gate to be announced.
Go to the gate.
No chairs.
We stand while waiting.
My heavy bag hurts my back and shoulders.

Lines! Lines! Lines!

So much standing in line.
Line for passport check.
Line for boarding pass.
Line to board a shuttle.

The line serpentines in theme-park style.
People stand near the door…Watching.
People on the stairway…Waiting.
Hey! There’s a guy with a Waitsfield t-shirt
Waitsfied, Vermont in Keflavik? Amazing!
Waitsfield is less than twenty miles from home.
Gotta meet that guy.

Snow is increasing as we board the shuttle back to the plane,
Compounding snow.
A feather pillow belching white.

More and More Snow
Walking is difficult.
Glad I’m not wearing my sneakers.
Would you like help?
A young man offers his hand to help me up the stairs

God, don’t let me fall

Boarding is complete.

Lines! Lines! Lines!

Planes join the queue.
Planes take a number.
Waiting to be de-iced.

Plow trucks on the runway can’t keep up.
Nothing can take off.
Waiting.

Time is distorted.
After an overnight flight
I’m so tired.
The pilot gives us updates. Three hours sitting on the tarmac. None of the news is good.

The flight is cancelled.
No one is flying anywhere today.

Worst snowstorm in October since they began keeping records!!!

Cell phones are out
Calculating.
Everyone asks, What will this mean to me?
So many questions and a thousand different answers.

People beginning their trip,
People ending a once-in-a-lifetime vacation,
People simply trying to get home
People sent on business
People traveling alone
People with young and very young children.

De-plane once again.
More snow. More Icy stairs.

God, don’t let me fall.

Back on board,
The shuttle hesitates
Wheels spinning.
What will we do if it’s stuck?
Slight fishtail as it begins to move.

Inside, we must collect our luggage.
The terminal is chaos.
No one is sure what to do or where to go.


I navigate around school groups sitting and lying in circles on the floor.
Grab my bag from the carousel.
Luggage tags are no longer attached.
I wonder where my name and address have landed.

Lines! Lines! Lines!

More lines.
No clear instructions.
Airport staff are limited in number.
Looking as dazed as passengers.
Long, long lines with hundreds of people.
What is at the end of this line?
Not exactly sure.
Hoping it will take us to hotels.
One line for families and couples
One line for singles
Nothing to indicate which is which
People in the wrong line
Travelers helping each other. “You’re in the wrong line. You need to be way over there.”

People arriving for outgoing flights that aren’t going.
Those at the end of their vacation no longer have lodging either.
They joined lines of their own.

Lines! Lines! Lines!

Taking a place in line, seemingly insignificant and random
Becomes crucial, critical, and consequential. Finding ourselves joined by circumstance, We commiserate, wonder, share our stories, and accept our fate.
Boarding the bus by our segment of the line
We became a community.
Most are singles.

Like the last plane out of Saigon
Everyone was hoping to get on a bus and out of the airport

Front seat view

Strong winds and biting snow.
I watched mothers sheltering blanketed babes, hoping to board. Fathers holding the hands of toddlers and young ones.
Please don’t split them up. Tears come unbidden. Ready to give up my place, but seats were found for everyone.

Finally talked to the Waitsfield Shirt Guy.
He’s from NYC, not VT.
Mom bought his shirt. So glad she did.
Waiting to learn where we’re going.


“I’m on a bus with a person I don’t know, taking me to a place I don’t know,” she said. I’m getting off.” Was she joking? Well, she got off.

An hour and a half away on a good day.
The trip took over three hours…closer to four.
Cautious drivers.
Proceeding very slowly.
Cars are in the ditch or abandoned.
Plow in the adjacent lane, spewing snow. Hard to see.
Blinding Whiteouts. Drifting across the lanes.
So much snow on the road
Hard to tell sky from land.
Everything is white.

Driving north, things let up a bit
Mountains and water appear out of the fog.
6km tunnel…Well…That was fun.

Stop for a bathroom break.
Some people purchased food.
It didn’t occur to me.
What was I thinking?
I hadn’t eaten any since Boston
I had water. I don’t remember where I got it, and a half muffin. Tossed in my bag at the last minute.

My seatmate is a Pakistani woman on her first solo trip. She lives in Toronto, going to a wedding in England. Hearing issues and accents complicate communication. We do our best.

Trying to keep the family informed. I text.
Almost out of power. Seatmate shares her charger

Arrived at a hotel at last. Where are we?
Hotel Vesturland in Borgarnes, Iceland

Lines! Lines! Lines!

Line up for a room.
Families and couples first.

Spartan room, a bed and plenty of hot water.
Shower in the morning. Dinner first.
Voucher for 4.000kr about $28, towards dinner. Passengers pay any price beyond that.
Not much on the menu without going over.

Worried about missing the bus, I set an alarm for 6:30. So tired, sleep comes quickly.


The Second Day


Waking with the alarm.
Up and in the shower.
No voucher for breakfast. I finished the last of the muffins and a piece of string cheese. Headed downstairs to scope out the situation.
No one was in the lobby or at the desk.
Panic.
Had I been left behind?
Back in my room.
Tried to call the front desk.
Phone to lobby didn’t work.

No word that I had been rebooked.
Called Icelandair.
In line to talk to a human. #128 in the queue.
Last ticket, do I want it? Eight-hour layover in Paris
The lobby calls. The bus would arrive momentarily.
Be in the lobby right away.
Jammed everything into my suitcase and was out the door in minutes.

We gathered in the lobby.
Coffee and tea.
A Diet Coke.
I think there were muffins…or…something. No food when I got there.

Greeted people I was beginning to recognize by their faces… Ben…The Bowdoin College Guy, Cheryl …who reminds me of Charlotte, my Pakistani friend, and the dad with the ginger beard.

“Here’s a brief announcement. The bus is coming,” she said, ” but it has broken down.” But of course! Ya, gotta laugh.

In the meantime, Anna and Rachel are going for a swim
Luke, aka The Waitsfield Shirt Guy, has ideas for getting to Edinburgh sooner.
We both tried unsuccessfully to get tickets to Glasgow.

I made one last bathroom visit
Luke went across to the little store.
He bought a charging cable for my phone…Life Saver!
Not hurry up and wait. It was wait, then hurry up!
We were the last two on the bus.
I sat with a guy from Indiana
Hours to get back to the airport.
Seated on the inside aisle, I saw very little out the window.
Everything snow covered and white.

Darkness falls quickly
Inside the airport, there is no direction.
We operate on rumors and speculation.
Waiting at the door, the amorphous crowd is constantly evolving, modifying, and transforming..

A little organization would have gone a long way.
Families once again were given preference…no one complained.
We were all tired and hadn’t eaten all day.

After the fifth time of shlepping our stuff to a bus… windy and very cold…only to be turned away…a few f-bombs were dropped, and not just by me.


Someone from the airline brought out a box of airplane-type snacks. Wassa crackers with a smear of cheese and Pringles. We fill our pockets for the coming hunger.

Our pod is the last to board a bus.
We had hoped to be close to the airport.

They took us an hour away…Wreck You Vick.
Arrived at the hotel and had to collect our luggage from under the bus. Luke was kindly helping me. What a treasure!

VERY ICY…I asked a random man for his shoulder.

God, don’t let me fall.

Shoot, I fell on the steps! Better to fall UP the stairs than down on my bum. I don’t think anyone saw me. Pride intact.


“We aren’t staying here. They are only feeding us here.” It’s not a joke. We’ll have to get back on a bus.


Literally EVERYTHING was gone on the buffet.


Eventually, tossed salad, potato cakes, and fish appeared. White wine sauce for the fish became salad dressing. Slim pickings in general, but especially for Vegetarians.

Somehow, Rachel scored a vegan meal and invited me to pick off the Seitan bits she didn’t want.

Two days ago, we were strangers, and now I’m picking food off her plate.

Hurry. Stick together. Get on the bus.


A young non-English speaking Asian girl helped me with the QR Code Information needed to find us rooms.

Move to another hotel…still in Reykjavik, an hour away from the airport. We are all worried about making our flights.

Our squad is determined to stay together. There is great comfort and security in being part of a team. I don’t know what I added to the alliance, but I’m glad I made the cut.

Debated going back to the airport. We could sleep in a chair. Decided to get horizontal, but no one really slept.


DAY THREE


Be in the lobby by 3:30 at the latest to catch the 4:00 bus.

Luke, a student at St. Andrews, had tried diligently to complete an online assignment. His instructor had no idea what she was asking him to do. Somewhere in the night, he gave up.

Rachel didn’t sleep at all.

I slept fitfully from 12-2:45.

I don’t know if Anna slept, but at breakfast…as always…she was bubbly, positive, encouraging, and full of life.

There was a small breakfast buffet with fresh fruit, meats, bread, and cheese.

We took some photos and acknowledged that we had made it through the storm together. Then we got back on a bus once again

On The Bus at 4:00 a.m.
Original photo, by Anna B Sexton

Reaching the airport, we exchanged quick hugs, another quick snap, and bid each other farewell. Luke had to hurry to his gate, and I lost Rachel and Anna in the check-in line. For the second time since this odyssey began, I had tears in my eyes. Relief that this brief detour was ending, tinged with an odd mixture of joy and sadness. We were all going our separate ways into the absolute elsewhere and into the continued adventures of our lives. Our paths may never cross again, but for one brief moment in time, the universe brought us together, and for that, I am forever grateful. Truly a gift of grace. And…Edinburgh still lay ahead.

Just Waiting For My Turn

“The key to everything is patience. You get the chicken by hatching the egg, not by smashing it.”

Arnold H. Glasow

Back in December, after having lived through a very challenging year, several of my friends began to contemplate the idea of choosing a word that would guide them through the coming year, a word that would become a mantra of sorts and one upon which they might meditate in the days to come. These friends shared the words that had guided them in previous years along with the words they were considering for 2021. I found this entire idea rather intriguing.  What word would I choose, I wondered.

When I settled on patience as the word that would guide me into 2021, I optimistically envisioned myself sitting before a fire with a glass of wine, the warm glow of candles, and snow softly falling just outside my window, as I crocheted, read, or was absorbed in something entertaining and life-affirming on the television.  I’d be uncomplaining, calm, and perhaps even serene as I waited for my turn to get the COVID vaccine or Spring…whichever came first. 

“It is strange that the years teach us patience; the the shorter our time, the greater our capacity for waiting.”

Elizabeth Taylor

Reflecting on the word I chose, now only three weeks into the new year, I’m reminded of a scene from Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.  Thinking he has found The Holy Grail, the villain drinks from the golden goblet and soon shrivels away to dust.  The Grail Knight, who has been guarding the true chalice, then remarks in a slow, deliberate tone, ”He chose…poorly”.  I think I too, may have chosen…poorly.

In truth, there was a fair amount of hubris in my decision. Certainly, I’d have the strength of character and the fortitude that comes with age, to be able to postpone the gratification that would arrive with the vaccine…or…Spring.

Spring Flowers Are A Long Way Off

But, wait a minute. Who was I kidding? I realize that I have to wait, but I don’t know what gave me the idea that waiting would be easy. After nearly a year of COVID isolation, I have crocheted the same pattern at least five times, I have trouble reading unless I get large-print text, and I’ve already binged watched all fifteen seasons of my favorite detective series. I am almost out of wine and I’ve been out of Diet Coke for a week.  There is snow outside my window…but it arrived with ice and slush as well.  Not exactly what I had envisioned. 

Public school prepared me to stand in line and wait my turn.  I never push or shove and although I might think about cutting the line, my conscience makes it a near impossibility. I immediately merge when the sign says lane closed and never try to pass cars expecting to squeeze in ahead of others. And more than once I’ve stood outside a closed bathroom door giving the present tenant privacy and time to complete their tasks only to discover that it had been unoccupied the entire time. I understand the morality of waiting, taking turns, and remaining in your place in line. I was taught well.

I really don’t mind standing in line when everyone is waiting equally.  I like take-a-number and I appreciate serpentine lines where you move up one at a time. You reach the head of the line after those before you have been served. Then…as it should be…it’s your turn. 

The British Crown Jewels

Twenty years ago, I joined a long line in The Tower of London to see the British Crown Jewels. It’s not often the approach to an event is as memorable as the event itself, but I have remembered this experience for two decades. The line of courteous visitors wound through two adjoining rooms. Videos of the Royals wearing the pieces we were about to see played on the walls.  When we reached the cases filled with the royal treasures, we stepped onto a moving walkway that carried everyone, at a snail’s pace, past the crowns, scepters, and the rest of the collection.  There was no jockeying for position because tall and short visitors had equal access. At the end of the walkway, people could exit the building. If, however, you wished to take another quick look, a docent would direct you back to the people-mover and you’d take your place once again.  It was such an orderly, efficient, and just system.

The worst standing-in-line experience I can remember was in Moscow in 2002. It took us two hours to go from our plane through passport control. It was a small airport and there weren’t many arriving passengers. It wasn’t that the officials were that thorough or that the process was complicated. The problem was that the line was very fluid.  People pushed, elbowed, and bullied in front of others who were ahead of them. My public school line-training and years of Sunday school lessons wouldn’t allow me to return a shove for a shove or even put up much resistance.  All in all…it was not a pleasant experience.

Four Wonderful Words!
Photo Credit…Pixabay

Standing in line for the loo is a uniquely female adventure and has taken place in every country I’ve ever visited.  There’s a special kind of bonding that takes place in the brief connection of women in bathroom lines. Of course, like any other kind of line, some remain silent and keep to themselves, but generally, women in long lines exchange smiles at the very least and often strike up conversations, share tissues from their purse when the TP has run out, and point out stalls that have just become available.  It is a temporary community of common need.

When we reached St. Petersburg, on that trip to Russia, we were treated to a fantastic lunch and entertainment in the Music Pavilion on the grounds of Pavlovsk Palace. While most elegant in every other aspect, there was no running water and no plumbing. Two porta-potties had been set up in the back. Presently, I found myself outside the familiar blue buildings in the ubiquitous line of women. 

The Music Pavilion Nineteen Years Later…Upgraded to THREE porta-potties.
Photo Credit: Visit-Petersburg.ru

Irene, who had quite a commanding presence on an ordinary day, proclaimed in a voice of added authority, “I’ve had just enough vodka to be assertive.” she said forcefully.  “We are all going to wait equally.  None of this his and hers stuff.  It will be first-come, first-served.” 

“Yes!” the rest of us exclaimed with smiles and muffled cheers. 

You can imagine what happened when my husband found himself in need of the WC.  Seeing two units and a single line of women, he assumed that, as is normally the case, the one without a line was standing at the ready for the next man to arrive…him.  Hilarity ensued as the women quickly put him in his place at the rear of the line.  I was told that one of the women even threatened with her cane, but I can’t swear to that.

This isn’t the first time I’ve waited for a vaccine. In the 1950s, my classmates and I were herded into the school gymnasium where we took our places in a long line that snaked around the room. I was too young to understand the promise the polio vaccine held for us. All I knew was there were a lot of kids crying. I wasn’t in a big hurry to get to the front of that line. How times have changed! Today it is the elders…those same kids from the ’50s and ’60s…who are counting on the promise that comes in a syringe. This time all the tears are tears of relief.

“Patience is not the ability to wait, but the ability to keep a good attitude while waiting.

Unknown…Probably a Woman

Perhaps there was more wisdom in my selection of patience as the word to lead me forward than I thought, for it has already taught me important lessons. I know that kicking and pushing won’t get me to my goal any faster. Even if they would, my belief in the inherent fairness of taking turns is so ingrained that I would never employ them. I know that friendship, connection,  kindness, and sometimes even humor are possible in the communal act of standing resignedly together in a line waiting. I know, too, that no matter how long the queue there is always an end and the eventual reward is worth all the effort. If life is indeed a journey, not a destination, then it may follow that waiting is also a journey. The length and speed of the line…like life… are out of my control, but whether I find a way to enjoy the trip or rail against it is up to me.

I’m considering cookies or maybe chocolate as my word for next year.

Chocolate, cookies, and tea.
Photo credit…Pixabay